This was not a day to be remembered. We headed toward Dandong, the border town with North Korea and arrived there at lunch time. In an absolute moment of decadence we had a KFC over looking the border (not proud of it!). This was one of those surreal moments where you are not quite sure where you are.Someone tells you that behind the Chinese flag the coastline is a country where a few million people are suffuring daily and you are swamped by an inevitable feeling of voyeurism and guilt about being on the good side of the fence.
Reloaded with our Americanised lunch we headed up towards the mountains. Yes, Fred China is a big country (no actually it is huge!) and to get to a place and get our fish we need to drive long distances. As part of our study we aimed at collecting this small fish from across the geographical range in the native part of China. It was a deliberate choice to go for coverage rather than high resolution in one location. Anyway, we found a lovely river in the mountains but our fish was not there or according to the locals very low in number. I suggested to Yahui that we should check the reservoir as it is the place where our fish normally do best but we had to pay to get in and he refused saying that was not a good location to fish. So we spent most of our afternoon trying to find such good location but without success. At the end of the day we met a couple of local fishermen who told us that the only place to get the fish as they were abundant was the reservoir… (very frustrating). Anyway, this was not an easy moment as losing face is not part of our host's tradition so we headed up to a local hotel and for some dinner (Californian noodles, equivalent to McDonalds in China during the 80’s). By the way,for dinner the hotel was offering some giant living worms (or parasites) which was not my cup of tea. After dinner, Yahui said “I have an idea why don’t we go and fish the reservoir after dinner as it is still open”…but after further lengthy diplomatic talks we headed up towards the local river to fish and caught…nothing!
We went back to our room exhausted from a frustrating day and felt that the day had escaped us without having been able to do much.
Thursday, 8 July 2010
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