Monday 12 July 2010
Day 28
Rudy
Sunday 11 July 2010
Day 27
Rudy
Saturday 10 July 2010
Day 26
After breakfast we headed up to the local abandoned reservoir, which was a stunning nature reserve with lots of mature ponds (I took a sample of water + sediments for Genoveva) and set up our traps following the advice of a local angler. When we asked if the fish was present and where should we fish, he said yes there are a lot and pointed out to a location as far from where he was as possible. After an hour fishing, and no fish in our traps we realised that all around the world anglers are all the same!!
We headed up for a smaller reservoir further up the catchment, there we had more luck, we met local fishermen who emptied their traps for us and that was enough for us to get a sample. All done with good heart with no charge, no negative feeling pure altruism something we have forgotten in our part of the world. The lake was riddled with maze traps, which are illegal in China but that everyone uses with a general consensus that it is illegal. This is the most amusing side of China and Chinese people who are full of complexity and contradictions which could at first be unsettling for our rational culture but which is in fact very refreshing as it allows the complexity of life and its daily contradictions to be integrated without having to confront or resolve them aggressively. Their society is full of subtlety and poetry, far from our ‘communist state’ stereotypes and we have a lot to learn from it.
This is a good occasion to introduce some Chinese sayings such as "Like climbing a tree to catch a fish" (waste of time) or" like asking a blind man for directions" (another waste of time) or one well suited for our leaders, "a new bottle filled with old wine" (a superficial change). Enough of that, I am being unfair with our leaders as I look at the sky from the bottom of a well (anybody know what that could mean?).
Lunch time in a local restaurant and guess what we had, fried topmouth gudgeon! Not bad but I will stay with sea bass when I return if you don’t mind.
That's it, we are now heading toward Chéngdé a town three hours from Beijing. Used to be a summer welcome retreat from Beijing for several emperors starting with the first Quing dynasty. I am not sure if we will have time to look at it but there is apparently a jaw-dropping colossal statue of Guanyin.
Genoveva and Rafa good luck for the final on sunday. It is broadcast here at 2.30 am but we will be watching...hopefully with both eyes open :-)
Day 25
Thursday 8 July 2010
Day 24
After locating the river and speaking to the locals we rapidly understood that no living creatures could be found in these local black rivers as they are so heavily polluted. So trying to waste no time we went further North trying to find better waters. On the road we found local fishermen in a village called “the seven families” who had already sold out their topmouth gudgeon for the day (highly prized here, I am not sure why) but that they will get some for us tomorrow morning (let’s wait and see). We need a sample from here as the local temperatures in the winter regularly plunge to -40 oC and goes up to +30oC in the summer. It would be interesting to see how the fish have adapted to these extreme temperatures.
Something, I haven’t mentioned so far in the blog (although it fills up quite a lot of our discussion, like old soldiers comparing their wounds) is the state of public toilets in China! You have some really wicked ones with a ditch over which you squat and separated by small walls. When you enter, you have to hyperventilate as the foul smell attacks the back of your throat and from time to time you have the pleasure of seeing a head poking over the wall and saying hellooo!
Tonight, we are all exhausted, a mixture of the driving, the drop in temperature (fit is the first time we have worn our jumpers) and disappointment with our fish collection. We can see that time is running out and we are all anxious to make sure we complete our collection and make this expedition and overall success.
Finally, we had all a deep thought for our friend and colleague Bernd after the football last night (we know the feeling) and say to Rafa and all online Spaniards "Hola" and good luck for the final!
It is midnight here and tomorrow we wake up at 5.30 so straight to bed now and no bedtime story ;-)
Day 23
Reloaded with our Americanised lunch we headed up towards the mountains. Yes, Fred China is a big country (no actually it is huge!) and to get to a place and get our fish we need to drive long distances. As part of our study we aimed at collecting this small fish from across the geographical range in the native part of China. It was a deliberate choice to go for coverage rather than high resolution in one location. Anyway, we found a lovely river in the mountains but our fish was not there or according to the locals very low in number. I suggested to Yahui that we should check the reservoir as it is the place where our fish normally do best but we had to pay to get in and he refused saying that was not a good location to fish. So we spent most of our afternoon trying to find such good location but without success. At the end of the day we met a couple of local fishermen who told us that the only place to get the fish as they were abundant was the reservoir… (very frustrating). Anyway, this was not an easy moment as losing face is not part of our host's tradition so we headed up to a local hotel and for some dinner (Californian noodles, equivalent to McDonalds in China during the 80’s). By the way,for dinner the hotel was offering some giant living worms (or parasites) which was not my cup of tea. After dinner, Yahui said “I have an idea why don’t we go and fish the reservoir after dinner as it is still open”…but after further lengthy diplomatic talks we headed up towards the local river to fish and caught…nothing!
We went back to our room exhausted from a frustrating day and felt that the day had escaped us without having been able to do much.
Tuesday 6 July 2010
Day 22
Tonight we ended up in Zhuanghe a few km down from Dandong, the border town with N. Korea where we are planning to go tomorrow morning. Yahui has some contacts there so we should be able to get a sample from N & S Korea which would be interesting as all their rivers have a very different history to the Chinese ones we sampled.
For dinner we went to a Korean restaurant which consisted of a barbecue incorporated in the table and everyone cooked their own food. Lovely. To digest our feast we went to the square to play a local game which consists of juggling some metal coins attached to a crown of featherswith your feet . You see people playing it all around China in parks and streets with all generations and sexes. I will bring a couple back to the UK (they cost 2p each) and start this Chinese game as a fashion in Bournemouth. I always told my wife that I was a fashion guru but she had some doubts…;-)